For straight drinking and occasional tapas you can be much less selective. There are bars
all over town - a high concentration of them with barrelled sherries from nearby Jerez and Sanlúcar (the locals drink the cold, dry fino
with their tapas, especially shrimp); a tinto de verano
is the local version of sangría
- wine with lemonade, a great summer drink. Outside the centre, you'll find lively bars in the Plaza Alfafa
area, and across the river in Triana
- particularly in c/Castilla, c/Betis, and in and around c/Salado. A new zone that has emerged as a focus for artistic, student and gay barhoppers is the Alameda
In summer much of the action emigrates to the bars along the river's east bank to the north of the Triana bridge as far as the spectacular Puente de la Barqueta, built for Expo '92. Many of these open for a season only, springing up the following year under a new name and ownership.
The gay scene has a cluster of bars on the city side of the Puente de Triana, where Isbiliyya, Tocame and other bars get lively around midnight.
Anima , c/Miguel Cid 80, north of the Museo de Bellas Artes. Lovely old tiled bar which mounts periodic art and photo exhibitions.
Bar Eslava , c/Eslava 3-5, near the church of San Lorenzo. Very good and extremely popular - which often means you can't get through the door - tapas bar with restaurant attached.
Bar Giralda , c/Mateus Gagos 1. Excellent and popular bar in converted ancient Moorish bathhouse, with a wide selection of tapas.
Bar Modesto , c/Cano y Cueto 5, at the north end of Santa Cruz (ask for it by name, it's well known). Perhaps the best tapas bar in the city, with just about every imaginable snack.
La Barqueta , just south of the bridge of the same name. Stylish open-air bar which puts on music, concerts, theatre and shows throughout the summer.
Capote , c/Radio Sevilla off c/Arjona, close to the Puente de Triana. Popular summer terrace bar with a varied clientele which gets younger as the night wears on.
Casa Morales , c/García de Vinuesa 11. Atmospheric traditional bar (founded 1850) with barrelled wine.
La Gitanilla , c/Ximénez de Enciso s/n. One of the liveliest places in Santa Cruz, with inexpensive drinks, but pricey tapas.
La Otra Orilla , Paseo de Nuestra Señora de la "O" s/n, near the Puente de Triana. Riverside open-air bar owned by the proprietors of La Barqueta (above) with a similar ambience.
El Refugio , c/Huelva 5. Slightly west of Plaza del Salvador, this serves a wide variety of snacks, including vegetarian tapas.
El Rinconcillo , c/Gerona 32, by the church of Santa Catalina. Sevilla's oldest bar (founded in 1670) does a fair tapas selection as well as providing a hangout for the city's literati.
Las Teresas , c/Santa Teresa 2, to the north of Plaza Santa Cruz. Good beer and sherry served in this atmospheric bar with hanging cured hams and tiled walls lined with faded corrida photos. It's also worth stopping here for breakfast the morning after.